Lily: Fragrance Profile
1. Overview
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Botanical family: Lilium species (true lilies).
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Origin: Native to Asia, Europe, and North America.
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Extraction: Natural lily absolute is not commercially available (the flowers yield almost no extractable oil).
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In perfumery, “lily” is a fantasy accord built from synthetic molecules and floral reconstitutions, inspired by true lily blossoms.
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Related notes: Lily of the Valley (muguet) and Madonna lily, though each has distinct nuances.
2. Aroma Character
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Floral, creamy, heady, green, dewy, slightly spicy, sometimes waxy.
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Nuances:
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Fresh & watery → morning dew impression.
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Creamy-white floral → rich, velvety sweetness.
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Green-stemmy → adds natural freshness.
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Powdery or waxy → soft, cosmetic-like undertones.
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👉 Overall impression: opulent yet fresh white floral — radiant, elegant, and sophisticated.
3. Chemical Composition (Key Molecules in Reconstitutions)
Since natural extraction isn’t used, perfumers create lily accords with:
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Hydroxycitronellal → classic green-floral freshness.
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Lyral (historically used, now restricted) → lily/muguet accord.
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Lilial (restricted) → lily-like floral depth.
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Florhydral, helional, cyclamen aldehyde → watery-dewy effects.
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Indole traces → natural white-floral richness.
4. Perfume Applications
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Functions as a heart note — luminous and elegant.
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Applications:
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White floral bouquets → lily adds radiant purity.
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Chypres & aldehydic florals → balances mossy or powdery bases.
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Modern niche perfumes → lily accords evoke “clean elegance.”
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Blends well with:
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Other white florals (jasmine, tuberose, gardenia, orange blossom).
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Green notes (galbanum, violet leaf).
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Aldehydes → sparkling sophistication.
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Woods & musks → refined bases.
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Famous uses:
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Diorissimo (1956, Dior) → lily of the valley focus, with lily nuance.
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Donna Karan – Gold (2006) → built around Casablanca lily.
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Cartier – Baiser Volé (2011) → modern soliflore lily.
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5. Mood & Symbolism
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Strongly associated with purity, renewal, and spirituality.
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Traditionally a funeral flower in Western culture (symbol of resurrection, peace).
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Also symbolizes femininity, elegance, and refinement.
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Mood impressions:
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Pure & serene → spiritual, cleansing.
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Elegant & refined → noble, sophisticated aura.
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Fresh & luminous → radiant and uplifting.
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Sensual & creamy → deeper exotic lily varieties.
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Quick Summary Table
| Attribute | Profile |
|---|---|
| Origin | Lilium flowers (recreated synthetically) |
| Aroma | Creamy, fresh, floral, dewy, slightly green, waxy |
| Chemistry | Hydroxycitronellal, Florhydral, helional, aldehydes |
| Perfume Role | Heart note; luminous white floral elegance |
| Mood | Pure, refined, spiritual, serene, feminine |
In essence: Lily is a fantasy white floral accord — pure, luminous, and elegant, bridging fresh dewy green notes with creamy sensual florals, often used to symbolize purity and sophistication in perfumery.